Exploring Hue's Western Quarter (Pham Ngu Lao – Chu Van An) and Thuan An beach bars at the weekend

Young travellers looking for lively music in Hue in the evening usually face two choices. They can join the crowds in the Western Quarter on the south bank, the three streets of Pham Ngu Lao, Chu Van An and Vo Thi Sau, or drive 14 km out to the beach bars and camping lounges at Thuan An to listen to acoustic music with the sound of the waves. The Western Quarter closes its streets to vehicles on weekend evenings, and Thuan An is far from the centre. Knowing when the roads close and where to meet your driver is therefore the key to keeping the night from being interrupted.

The pedestrian streets of Pham Ngu Lao – Chu Van An – Vo Thi Sau at the weekend

The three streets of Pham Ngu Lao, Chu Van An and Vo Thi Sau on the south bank of the Perfume River form the busiest night-life centre in Hue’s inner city. From Monday to Thursday the area still allows normal traffic, but pubs, Asian and Western restaurants and craft beer houses are open to receive guests from late afternoon.

When the three weekend days (Friday, Saturday and Sunday) arrive, the whole area switches to pedestrian mode during fixed hours:

• When the barriers go up: From about 18:00 to 24:00 on Friday and Saturday evenings (indicative hours; check on the spot). On Sunday evening it usually ends earlier, around 22:00, to return the road to traffic at the start of the week.
• The character of the space: The roadway becomes an open stage for street musicians playing acoustic sets, young bands and craft stalls. Pubs on both pavements play lively music, and tables set right along the street suit groups who want to mix into the busy atmosphere.
• Choosing a table: At peak hours, from 20:00 to 22:00 on Saturday, the bars at the Chu Van An – Vo Thi Sau crossroads fill up very quickly. For a group of six or more, arrive before 19:00, or combine the evening with the Hue evening food tour itinerary and then walk straight into the night street.

Car pick-up points outside the Western Quarter barriers

Because barriers set up by the authorities block the entrances to the three streets during pedestrian hours, cars cannot reach the front of the bars inside the zone. To avoid wandering around looking for your car when you leave, agree on one of these four meeting points with your driver in advance (indicative locations; check the barriers on the spot):

1. Le Loi – Pham Ngu Lao junction: Right at the start of Pham Ngu Lao, on the side closer to the Perfume River. Le Loi is wide with two-way traffic flowing smoothly, which makes it easy for 4- to 16-seat cars to pull over to the kerb and collect a group.
2. Nguyen Thai Hoc – Chu Van An junction: Suits guests sitting in the pubs in the middle or at the far end of Chu Van An. You only need to walk about 100 metres past the barrier to reach the waiting car.
3. Nguyen Thai Hoc – Vo Thi Sau junction: Near Tu Do Stadium. Between 22:00 and 23:00 the road here is more open and less congested than on the Le Loi side.
4. Top of Ben Nghe – Doi Cung street: Runs parallel to the Western Quarter and connects to it through short walkways, which is convenient for groups staying in the hotel cluster on the central south bank.

Thuan An beach bars and lounges 14 km from the centre

If you dislike city noise and want an open space that catches the sea breeze, the beach bars and camping lounges along the Thuan An coast are a worthwhile alternative. About 14 km east of Truong Tien Bridge along National Route 49, the Thuan An area has a completely different character:

• Sunset and beach-music hours: The beach lounges usually start to fill up from about 16:30 in the afternoon. You can sip a cocktail or fruit juice on deckchairs along the sand, watch the sun sink over the lagoon and the coast, then enjoy a barbecue and open-air acoustic music running until about 22:30.
• Best season: The outdoor bars along the Thuan An coast are usually at their liveliest from April to September, when the weather is dry, the sea is calm and the south wind is cool. In the rainy months, or when the north-east monsoon blows, many deckchair areas on the sand are moved into covered space indoors.

Arranging a return private car for a night out at Thuan An

The 14 km trip from central Hue to Thuan An beach, via National Route 49 and Thuan An Bridge, takes about 20 to 25 minutes by car. After 21:00, however, taxis or ride-hailing cars are often hard to find along the coastal road or at the Thuan An beach area, so it is best to book ahead.

Booking a private car from Hue to Thuan An beach as a round trip, with a driver waiting, solves the problem of getting around at night:

• Safe after drinking: Everyone can enjoy craft beer, wine or cocktails on the beach without anyone needing to ride a motorbike or drive a car back to town in the dark.
• Choose the right car size: A group of 3 to 4 people can choose a compact 4-seat car. Groups of 5 to 7, or families with small children, should choose a 7-seat or 16-seat car for a more spacious cabin, with a clean boot liner if you bring swimming bags and beach towels.
• Several stops in one evening: You can ask the driver to collect you at the hotel at 16:30 and go straight to the Thuan An beach bar to watch the sunset and have dinner. Then at 21:00 the car takes the whole group back to the Le Loi – Pham Ngu Lao junction to continue the Western Quarter walk before resting. You can also look through the private car routes from Hue to plan the next day’s journey.